Archive for May, 2010

From Cide to Inebolu


2010
05.26

We spent at least 2 hours at the petrol station in Cide hanging on the internet. Then heavy rains came so again we couldn’t make too much progress. :) We couldn’t find a bigger supermarket in Cide, just the usual small and expensive ones. Nobody speaks English here, it is quite annoying! We also ate döners. We’ve discovered that here in Turkey the restaurants’ tradition is that if you order something (in this case, döners) they bring a lot of other food and drink without asking you. Then it turns out only after you’ve finished that it cost some extra liras – we thought they bring it because it is included in the döner’s price.
After Cide a climb came again and we also met a hitchhiking guy there – we just talked shortly while passing by, but we regret that because it would have been so nice to finally speak to somebody who speaks English!
We only did 26 km this day, it was getting dark so we settled down at the first camping place we found, even if there was no panorama, only bushes surrounding it. When we started next day, we found an ideal sleeping place right after 3 km – just as I expected. :) It was a small house, carpets inside, a “Yöneldiginde Allah yanindadir” sign above the door, with a small terrace, plus water outside and a separate small building with toilets. It was empty and open. We stopped to wash our clothes – the weather is finally sunny again so they dry quickly on the quickly stretched ropes. Meanwhile, Zsofi also fries some pancakes. I’m afraid that the 450 g Primus power gas will run out, we’ll see. The solar panel has fully charged the netbook so life is good now. :) We’ve decided to write down notes whenever we can – in this way we can immediately post it on the blog when we find a wifi.
There are some landslides which block the road along the coast – we’ve already met some. They repair the road constantly. By bike we can sometimes pass by without waiting for them to let cars go. Sometimes not. The hillside is quite steep at some points and big rocks are falling down, making the half of the road disappear.  But fortunately the traffic is not big on this road! So when we had to wait for 5 minutes at a construction work, only 1 car queued up. :) And although the road is very difficult by bike, the nice landscape compensates. We always look at the sea and the nice coastline while riding. We also got used to go on the left side of the road because then we can see more. We had the feeling that this Karadeniz yolu is a bicycle road (it is quite narrow at some points) on which sometimes a car passes by. We don’t like when car comes on the road because we can’t slalom up the steep hills.
The most important sentence we learned is: “Ne kadar?” (How much does it cost?) because at the small vegetable and fruit stalls they never indicate prices. So when we arrive, we ask “Ne kadar” 10-20 times, pointing at every item. :) They also tend to round the numbers. So 300 g tomato costs the same as 500g.
We like to eat peanuts as snack at short stops. Here, in Turkey, the salt is on the brown skin of the peanut which we don’t eat. If we peel the peanut the salt comes off, so we do not peal it! We try to consume a lot salt because we probably lose a lot with the sweating.
You might be curious how we stand sitting on the saddle for so much time. The answer is: on the first few days when we were riding for long hours without stopping then we could feel our bump in the evening. But since we stop regularly – that is the advantage of the very steep road – it doesn’t hurt at all. Probably it only hurts if we go (or actually sit) a lot at a stretch.
Felix regretted that once we slept at a place where we couldn’t see the sunset from the tent because next day we saw so many nice places where we could have slept. So next day he didn’t want to stop until he found a sunset place. I start usually feel uncomfortable around 6:30pm if we are still not looking for a place to sleep because it is not fun to ride the bike in the dark and it is also more difficult to find a place when you can hardly see anything. So I started to feel that anxious when he said we have to climb another hill knowing that it takes for a while and it is also really tiring. Finally we found a place which was really nice, it was kind of on the top of a cliff.

Many bumps on the Black Sea coast...

We saw the sunset, recorded our every day statistics and went to sleep. The next thing I know is that Felix wakes me up that he can’t sleep because the wind is blowing very strongly and it makes such a noise that he can’t stand so we need to go. It was at 5am!!! I didn’t like the idea to start at 5am but had no chance. So that is how it happened that we went already more before noon than other days.

We visited Doganyurt which is a small city with a square, a bunch of people are sitting in cafe’s and drinking tea. At the end of the day we both were very tired, the total ascent was 1232m while the highest point we reached was only 235m. So we climbed a lot, actually we broke a record with that! To emphasize that even more it means we climed more than what we did at the high passes in Romania or Bulgaria.
Next day we rolled down to Inebolu and had a rest on the beach. Felix asked the hotel’s wifi password so that’s why we have internet access now.
Today, 26th May, Zsofi had a swim in the sea for the first time! :) It is not so cold as it was in Sile. But the locals still don’t understand why we came here and not to the south of Turkey. They say that summer begins here only in mid or end of June…
The solar charger has charged the netbook from 60% to 95%. At the beginning, it consumes a lot of current and the small battery always discharges and breaks connection to the load (which is the netbook).  But when it is near total capacity, the charger switches from constant current charging to constant voltage charging, thus resulting in less and less current which is no longer a problem for the solar charger and the small Pb battery. So it is a good practice to keep the netbook nearly fully charged when possible.


1000 m ascent a day


2010
05.23

Last time when you received a bunch of posts to read we were in Eregli. We decided to stay there for a rest day, the continuous ups and downs were very tiring.
Tamás mentioned once that there was a loudspeaker on a mosque. Well, there are speakers on every mosques and 5 times a day we can hear some pray and because of the speakers you can hear it everywhere in the city/village (and also in a 10 km circle). It was not different in Eregli either, the only difference was that before the pray started we heard some dialing tone from the speaker very loudly. I think it was a recorded voice and played at the time it was needed but we are not sure as we don’t understand a thing. We find it a little bit strange this loud pray so many times a day. We tried to find something similar in Hungary, maybe it is like the bells at noon but it doesn’t wake you up in the morning.
After Eregli we climbed a 500m pass but it was not that steep as the Turkish average. Next to the road there were a lot of small booths selling strawberry, one small bucket for 10 TL. We found it very expensive just like everything in small shops, more expensive than in Hungary. The bigger the city the cheaper the food is, the cheapest was so far Istanbul. We find this quite surprising as in Hungary it is the other way around.
It was so hot that the asphalt melted and we felt that the tires stuck to road making climbing a bit more difficult. Whenever a car or a truck passes by they always push the horn just next to us. I think it is supposed to be some kind of welcoming but we find it annoying because it is quite loud and we will go deaf if we have to listen to it very long. I think Turkish people like the horn a lot and they push it whenever they see something unusual. Surprisingly the road did not continue in a ravine and we could roll down for a long time. At the bottom there was a beach where Felix went to swim. I changed for a bathing suit as well and felt like people are looking a bit strange at me so at the end I didn’t dare to take my T-shirt of. But it was OK because the water was very cold anyhow. People grilled some chicken which had good smell. The cyclists are always hungry so we visited a restaurant and eat some chicken. The meals cost 7 TL each that’s why we were quite surprised when the lady at the end told us that we should pay 40 TL. We couldn’t decide why she said that because nobody spoke English there so our guess it was just a nice try. Felix explained them that 7+7=14 but still after that we got only back 5 TL from a 20…
There was our first tunnel before Zonguldak where we had to switch on our headlights, although it was not long, 100-200 m.
We arranged our next CS in Zonguldak, the GPS navigated there (we knew the address) – it was on the top of a mountain with extremely steep streets! This was the steepest so far. We had to push, but it was also very tiring. My shoes even slipped on the asphalt. We had to stop every 5 m and there were stairs next to the road – you can imagine how steep it was.
Finally we found the flat. It looked like a hairdresser’s saloon (it was that before). The guy was kind with us and we’ve learned that youtube is banned in Turkey because there was some offensive material about Atatürk. We asked him about the religious habits in Turkey – it turned out that on the beach, women swim in clothes so when Zsofi wore bikinis on the beach, she was not only imagining that others look strange at her, but she was right.
Not only was the road out of Zonguldak killing (the extremely steep ascents continued with lots of stinky buses and trucks) but we also realized after 10 km that we left our big jar of Nutella at the CS place! The biggest loss was the light plastic jar in which we always repacked the Nutella to get rid of the heavy glass.
The ups and downs continued until Fylios. Then the microbumps (Edirne-Istanbul) reappeared but the road was more or less flat. After we left the main road at Saltukova (to take the shorter road to Bartin), ups-and-downs begun. Here on this road we would have been lost without the GPS because there were no signposts! Zsófi was tired and said that we will not reach Bartin that day so we canceled the CS host in an sms. We found a camping place with nice panoramic view. This day we climbed more than 1000 m so I had to promise Zsofi that we will take a rest week in Amasra, which I soon managed to bargain down to 3 days.

In Bartin we finally found a supermarket. Both of us went in, one by one. While I was waiting outside, a man came there and looked askingly like Besenyő Pista bácsi in the beginning of this VIDEO ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqh_kWyj_iM ). Finally he asked: “Tourist?” I don’t know how could he figure this out… :)
We bought grilled chicken (6 TL, 9 if you eat it on site) and we ate it next to the river on a nice bank. We had to climb through a pass to reach Amasra. There we could not find a place for our tent so we slept in a pension – the room cost 17 EUR. The view from the terrace was beautiful! Amasra is a cute little town. We took an evening walk. In the morning, Zsofi fried some pancakes (we forget to ask whether breakfast is included or not). We found the only place in town (a jewelry) where they change money but finally we took it from an ATM. After a late start (at 3 PM)  we wanted to look for a camping place in the near (this is a rest day, after all). We found one after 279 m climb but I had to get water and bread from the nearby village (this was the zig-zag on the tracking). There was no shop in this village, so a man was so kind and gave me some bread (plus olives and apples), for free. We set up the tent next to 2 cows on a grassy land. They were tied to a stick so Zsofi dared to pass by them and to camp there.
We realized that we don’t have enough days left from our visa to ride all the way through Turkey! When calculating at home using a map, it was much easier – we did not see the tiring ups and downs next to the coastline on Karadeniz Yolu – the Black Sea route.
The sun came out from behind the clouds and there was no shade so we set up to find an other (more shady) place for the tent. We found it after 10 km. We asked the neighbours whether we can sleep there – they allowed it and later invited us for dinner. There was also internet in the house (but no wifi so we could not use our own laptop in the tent).

Next day we rolled down to the beach of Cakraz – it was very nice, we took tons of photos there. However, it was not beach time here yet – I was the only person to swim.

On the cliffs next to Cakraz beach

Again, a steep climb came – Zsofi almost wanted to give it up and told me that I should continue alone – but somehow she continued. We luckily found a very nice place for the tent (the only possible place in a 20 km area) with a nice view of the sea and the sunset over the sea! We were sleeping until late next day – we slowed down to 25 km a day :)
The next day we had some rain and also cleaned our chains after 2170 km. Again we found a nice place, and we just started to cook when a bus stopped and about 20-30 people got off and walked towards us. We thought that they are looking for a place to pee, etc. and all of them will do it in the bushes surrounding us. But they just had a rest and gathered around us (just as if they’d seen an UFO). To our surprise, none of them spoke any languages other than Turkish! Some of them said “Yes” and laughed… This is common in whole Turkey – they either don’t speak any languages, or if they do, they are very hard to understand. Many times they just repeat the one sentence they know and laugh after that.
At night there was heavy rain, it was so loud that we woke up. In the morning we woke up to barking dogs – when I looked out, there were 8 dogs around the tent! They went away but came back in 5 minutes, sniffing our food and settled down there. When I opened the tent and shouted “go away!”, they did not move. But when I came out and stood up (threateningly holding up an empty plastic bottle in my hand), they realized that I’m bigger than they are so they reluctantly walked away.
Today is a short day again because we found wifi at a petrol station and wanted to write to the blog and upload photos.
More photos at: http://picasaweb.google.hu/felix.kovacs/BikeToAsiaTorokorszag2
(We opened a new album because picasa wanted to start synchronizing from scratch…)

Thanks for the comments


2010
05.15

Dear Readers,
It is so good to read your comments! Whenever we find a wifi, even if we only have a short time to look for CS hosts, we always read our emails and the comments here on this blog, and usually laugh a lot. :) Special thanks to Tamas for the btoa.blog.hu and for Saman for the Google map summary. We also like your guesses very much  – how we crossed the river and the Bosporus bridge, what happened in Kefken, etc. And your guess is almost always correct! And also thanks to Cason who enable you to make these guesses. :)
We also encourage our read-only readers to leave some comments – or private emails.
Thanks!

Our physical conditions


2010
05.15

We’d like to share some words about how we feel ourselves.

Zsofi: at the beginning (first few nights), Zsofi sometimes woke up at night to feel spasm in her leg muscles. This lasted until Arad. We gave each other massages regularly. Then after Deva, her left knee started to ache – this lasted for 1 week and it was probably because of the too much strain (maybe because she tended to use higher gears than needed – she got used to not switching back in Budapest for shorter uphills, like Lágymányosi bridge). In Istanbul, she realized that she cannot walk as much as at home. In Eregli, she found it hard to walk up the stairs to the 3rd floor. Around Sile, she was very exhausted because of the steep hills and ate a lot. Now her wrists hurt a little – she finds it difficult to hold the bike (when for example it starts to fall). We have a cream for easing such pains. She also falls sometimes with the bike (when descending to a lake in Bulgaria, she had to get off the bike, and then she fell into the bush). She is full of green-blue spots everywhere – she hits the pedal with her leg, etc.

She just fell here (uphill) - there it hurts

Otherwise, my opinion is that she stands the challenge quite well. :) Sometimes I am more tired than Zsofi!

Felix: at the beginning I was OK although I also asked for a leg massage. I started to exhaust in Turkey after Edirne because of the ups and downs. For me, climbing a high pass (above 1000 m) is not a problem but if the max. elevation is 100 m and the total daily ascent is 1000 m, then I get tired (and pissed off because of the silly pointless climbs)! At around Sile my thigh muscles started to hurt (not continually but only when I hit them with my fist or stretch them). I also had some small red spots on my skin because of the Sun (UV). First they appeared on my ears, we thought they are mosquito bites. After I bought a hat they started to disappear. Also there was some on my arms, which disappeared after I wore a long sleeve white shirt. And now on my back, after I started to undress in the heat on the steepest slopes…

Both of us: When we start pedalling on a steap hill then after a few seconds our thigh muscles hurt for a 10 seconds. We call this: “Sugar!”. The phisical background of this is that the muscles have some spare fuel which lasts only for a few seconds. After that the muscles take energy (sugar) from the blood. Or something like that. :-)
We start to find the weather too hot here in Turkey (although it was only the first half of May). Zsofi likes hot weather more than me – when we have a rest she sits on the sun while I prefer the shade, but I remember times when even she longed for a shade. :)
We are tired maybe because on average, our days were just 23 hours 58 minutes 20 secons long instead of 24 hours! (We came approximately 13 degrees to the East in 31 days – you can calculate.)

What we eat: a usual food (breakfast) consists of bread, butter, sausage (not in Turkey), cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, paprika, onions, garlic (we ate more garlic on this tour than at home during our lives), Nutella, jam. We cook (usually in the evening): rice, pasta with some sauce, paprikáskrumpli (paprika is not so good here and is usually too hot), pancakes, chicken stew. On the way, we eat tons of chocolates, biscuits, peanuts, raisin (only Felix), icecreams, fruits. Sometimes we eat on the street like döner, etc. Yesterday we ate out in a restaurant (we were invited). We drink a lot, maybe 3-5 litres a day. We pour a fair amount of salt onto the vegetables (because we sweat it out). We consumed 4 rolls of toilet papers in one month (Felix 1, Zsofi 3). Spending: about 1000 HUF (5 USD) /day/person (excluding visa).

Our mood: we feel that the tour is a rush, we don’t have enough time to enjoy the landscape, to rest, to hang on Internet, to cook a more complicated meal, not to mention reading a book. We feel that there is a bright yellow circle on the sky that is flying very quickly from east to west – we don’t understand where time disappears: we cycle 4-5 hours a day, what do we do in the rest? Here in Turkey it’s understandable because we have a 30-day time limit for the visa, but in Bulgaria? Looking back on it, we could have had more rest days… Never mind, we’ll rest a lot in Georgia (if we can reach it).
We had a strange finding: we left our daily routine (getting up, preparing, going to work, going home, etc.) at home but created a new one instead: getting up because the heat is unbearable in the tent, packing things on the bike, drying the tent, switching on the GPS and tracking, installing the solar panel, riding the bike, stopping to drink, to eat, to take a photo, to go to toilet, to change clothes (uphill it’s too warm, downhill we are cold), buying food, after 6-7 pm: finding a place to sleep, setting up the tent, washing ourselves, changing clothes, doing the netbook routine jobs (download photos and star them in Picasa, GPS data, fill in statistics), eating or cooking in tent, going to sleep…
There were times when we annoyed each other – a few days between Edirne and Istanbul. But otherwise we get on well with each other. Recently we started to laugh a lot – I make Zsofi laugh so much that she cannot climb the steep slopes and she has to stop (and of course she cannot start on steep slopes).
Our overall impression of the tour is good, we like it! :)

1/1 or full break


2010
05.15

Sile - there is a sandy beach left from these rocks

We reached Sile at around noon and had a quick beach-time. I also swam a bit but the water was very cold (18 degrees maybe). It was a pleasant place, I thought that we will go through places like this every day, but no, there was no such nice beach until now (we are in Eregli now). We wanted so much to spend a rest week here, but our 30-day Turkish visa did not let us to have long rest days… Even so, we are not sure that we can cross the country in a month! We’ll see. If the steep and killer ups and downs continue, we can only go 50 km a day and even so, we got more and more tired. When there were flat roads, we could cover 20 km in an hour! In the hills, there are lots of pointless steep ups and downs. They are lazy to build a bridge over a small valley – they rather let us descend 80 m and then again climb 80 m, but carefully place a 50 cm gap at the lowest point of the roller-coaster, so that, before the steep climb, we must break down completely to loose all of our moving energy.

The elevation profile - pointless ravines

And this also puts a lot of strain on the brakes. So it was either 1/1 (the lowest) gear and 5 km/h upwards or full hard break and a max speed of 10-15 km/h downwards. This is so much annoying and tiring! Cyclists, please do not come here! Except if you want to train for Tour de France. Then this is a great place. (Sile – Agva, via Karacaköy.) The road is so steep that they don’t even dare to mark it on the signposts! There is only an ascent or a descent sign, but without percentages. Once when I measured it, we asccended 3 m on a 10 m road, which is a 30% ascent (out of Sile)! We are able to climb these only in a slalom (like skiing, just upwards) or sometimes even have to push the bikes. Zsofi decided that she will eat as much as she can because she is always hungry! At home, she gains weight even if she doesn’t eat – on the tour, she looses weight even if she stuffs herself.
The road quality is quite unpredictable. In smaller villages we encountered very bad bumpy roads but good asphalt as well. One day we wanted to avoid the small roller coasters near the beach so we took the main road from Agva to Kandira and then Kefken. This was better because even if we had almost 1000 m ascent this day, it was not so steep and hence not so tiring, and we used our energy better because we did not have to pull the brakes downwards! So we had good rollings on the slopes which was delighting after the Sile-Agva road.
About Kefken: our map indicates that there is an orange road between Kefken and Karasu. So we targeted that one. In Kefken, after we could not find a suitable camping place because of the never-ending village sindrome, a man shouted after us: “Wohin fahren?” Zsofi continued climbing but I stopped and answered, “Karasu”.
- Nicht gut, kommen Sie zurück, nach Adapasari!
I asked him why, and showed him the map, but he told that that orange way not really exists and there are only small bad roads without asphalt, so I checked the GPS and saw that really, it does not indicate a main road there! Why didn’t I check the GPS sooner?! (Maybe because it happened before that it misleaded us.) Then I asked him: “Können wir hier schlafen in unserem Zelt?” “Ja, warum nicht?” So we agreed to sleep in his garden. He spent 26 years working in Germany so he could speak a language we also knew, that was positive. He also had a small apartment on the ground floor of his 3-floor house. But when we asked whether we must pay for it or not, he said that it’s 50 TL for the apartment. But tenting is free. So of course we choose the tent. But even so he gave us the key and let us use the toilet and water inside. It turned out only later (somebody else told us) that there was a nice beach in the near (Kerpe) which we did not visit…
So the next day we took the Kaynarca – Denizköy – Karasu road. We realized that our map’s only function is to indicate the sequence of bigger cities. :)
In the villages, there was a strong smell of chicken shit and all of the children shouted “Hello” and then laughed! :) The air is warm already at 8-9 AM so we usually stop at taps by the road to refresh ourselves with cold water and also to wet my shirt and hat so that I can bear the heat when climbing. (I don’t know how will I be able to bear the heat later – in June, July…)
We found a suitable place for the tent after Karasu, between a soccer court and a cemetery. The grass was very dry here, the ground was sandy, and in the evening a thunderstorm came with a heat wave which I could not understand! Why did the temperature suddenly rise in the middle of the night so that I couldn’t sleep?
The road here was better, going near the sea and quite flat so we could make progress much faster. Only near Akcakoca was there a pointless roller coaster again, but after the Düzce crossing until Eregli it was flat again! In Eregli I found the steel factory on the shore quite ugly, blowing smoke on the city. But the inner town was nice and we met our CS host at the Atatürk statue (where Tarkan sings his song in a video clip, according to our host). We had to follow his car to his home, and again we had to climb a lot! Eregli is a city on the hill, we could see it from the road far before. It was warm but in the room it was even warmer, as the heating was on! (Why? Because 2-3 nights earlier there was a colder night.) :)
We wanted to leave Eregli and head to Zonguldak today but then we have read Saman’s comment that we should write blog posts more often, so we have another rest day to fulfil his request and continue only tomorrow.
The other reason is that we still not have CS hosts in Zonguldak. Now Zsofi cooks some paprikáskrumpli. Bulent tought us some words which are common in Turkish and Hungarian: like sakal = szakáll, elma = alma, cok = sok, katana = katona, ata = atya, ana = anya.

More photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/felix.kovacs/BikeToAsiaTorokorszag#

Out of Istanbul


2010
05.15

The rest day was also tiring – we walked a lot in the city. I haven’t seen such a crowd before than here in the walking street. We did not spend much – just bought some ice cream and a tavuk (chicken) döner. We don’t like the beef meet here in Turkey, the taste is too strong for us – so we already became semi-vegetarians, eating only cheese, because we cannot buy good (Hungarian pork) sausages here… Or we can eat chicken meat.

We also visited some mosques – they are really nice inside and outside. But inside there is a strong smell of feet because visitors must take off their shoes and carry it in a plastic bag (which we discard afterwards, so it is not a green solution – producing a lot of garbage). Then in the evening Nuri invited his friend who brought some food like pizza so we ate it together. We also talked about Kurd people (they come from there). We could wash our clothes and hung them on a rope that we spanned across the living room in the diagonal. :) The next morning we started at around 9 and we only wanted to leave the city. It was not so easy! Thanks to Tamas Schmauder, I could plan the route with MapSource (and Google maps). So we could follow the GPS. I hated those parts where we had to cross 3 lanes and take the left lane on a highway-like road with lots of traffic – sometimes we had to wait for minutes until we could cross the lanes. Then there were so many buses that we couldn’t make progress because of them stopping all the time and people jumping on and off in front of us. So we took the tramway. It was OK for 2-3 km’s but then a

police car came behind us and they said no-no, but we were just about to leave it anyway so I said OK! :)

Skyscrapers in northern Istanbul

The European part of the city had the most traffic. We wanted to cross the northern bridge – we saw that both bridges are highways and the route was shorter if we took that bridge. But then we saw the green highway sign and also the “forbidden for cyclists” sign. OK, we continued in the rightmost lane, it was safe (definitely safer than some main roads where cycling is allowed but there is no stopping lane!). Then the paying gates came – OK, we crossed them with confidence without stopping. No police came blasting after us. Then at the beginning of the bridge, there was a small booth, and a man came out running towards us and asking to stop and lift our bikes over the roadside barrier (he helped us) and only repeated “Yasak!” and go back. He told we cannot use the spare lane either (which was empty and we could have gone through it). We did not want to go back into the busy city just to try the other bridge – it was so far and we were not sure whether we can cross it or not (unfortunately we haven’t made a research on internet – we’ve read in Tamas’s blog that it would have been possible!). So we went back to the paying gates and asked a big van to help us cross the bridge. The first one we asked was immediately stopped by the police so we couldn’t talk to him, but the second man was so kind to help us put the bikes in. We wanted to take a photo at the “WELCOME TO ASIA” sign but couldn’t!!! It was on the bridge and did not want to go back (police booth again…). So finally we arrived to Asia! Bike to Asia – mission completed. Even if it was a “van to Asia”. :) Also, the view of Bosporus was so nice but the camera was at the back of the car so we missed it.
The Asian side was a village compared to the European side of the city. There was no end of Istanbul sign, just as there was no Istanbul sign when we entered the city. So we couldn’t take a photo at the Istanbul sign either. It took us 35 km just to reach a place which we could call the end of the city. On this day we couldn’t go too much because of the steep hills. We did not know that this was just the beginning! We wanted to reach Sile but we slept somewhere before the seashore (Sahilköy). So we did only 50-60 km a day not because we don’t like to ride the bike, but because we are so tired of the steep ups and downs that we cannot do more!

More photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/felix.kovacs/BikeToAsiaTorokorszag#

The worst road ever


2010
05.09

Day 18 (1st of May) started as sunny as the others in Bulgaria. It was worth having a rest day before, because Tihomir said that there is a lovely landscape before Elena, but he forgot to mention that after Elena there comes the worst road in Bulgaria! As you can see on the photos, the landscape was really beautiful. Hristo, our next CS host in Nova Zagora already texted us that there will be a 20 km long macadam road through the hills. The next sign was the “pass closed” sign just after Elena. We were not sure what it meant so we asked a passing car – they told that it is written there because the road quality is unacceptable for cars, but as we are on MTBs, we are OK. At this time, we thought it will be like the pass in Romania before lake Vidra. But it was much worse!

Worst road ever

Large pieces of stones, we wouldn’t even call it a road. It lasted for 16 km’s. Zsofi had to get off and push several times, even downhill, she was afraid that she will fall. The stones sometimes put the bike’s back or front 10-20 cm sideways. Zsofi bounced on the saddle. Her mood degraded exponentially with the distance covered. It was very hard to start on the rolling stones once we stopped. But I just kept riding like a robot and I liked it – this kind of road was not new to me. :)

Balkan mountains

It was hot and there were small flies who kept flying just in front of our face which was very annoying. On the top at 1044 m there was not even a sign marking the pass. From there, the road suddenly changed to good quality, and even if there were occasional holes, it was very delighting to roll downhill. I think that it was much better in this direction that the other: we can climb slowly anyway, but can roll down faster.

The descend was more comfortable

The road from here to Nova Zagora was quite easy. It was already dark when we arrived. Hristo was very hospitable, gave us a whole house and brought us dinner.
Day 19: we found a wifi and washed all our clothes. We started very late – only at 5 PM.
Day 20: we crossed a unique pass – it did not lead through the saddle but through the top of the hill, and we went from hilltop to hilltop for several km’s. But we really enjoyed the slope downwards. We could roll very fast without having to break – my favorite. Because we utilize our energy optimally this way.

Cycling on the runway

We were invited to two icecreams at a shop in front of which we settled down to eat our own food – just as usual. In this region, all of the shop owners are very kind and let us to eat there – something that is not so common in western Europe, for example. I can remember that in Corse, we were asked to leave when we started to eat at a table… In Svilengrad, we found a wifi in front of a Supermarket. Then crossed the BG-GR border very quickly and found a place with lots of aggressive mosquitoes just a couple of km’s after that.
Day 21: The mosquitoes did not pause – they attacked us even in the morning! Btw, we came through Greece because the direct way from Svilengrad to Edirne was a highway. Now, it turned out that we are on a highway in Greece as well (which was not indicated on the Greece map that we got on the border for free from the officer). So we took the next exit and went on smaller roads with many extra km’s. Near the Turkish border, there was an interesting river-crossing: the road suddenly disappeared and continued under the water for several hundred meters. It was not too deep, however, so we could cross – but the chains did not like the water, I think.

Paddle boat

This day we did not have to ride a long distance but even so, at the end we had to hurry not to be late – Emre, our next CS host waited for us at 17:30 in the center of Edirne. But there was a long stretch of cobbled road which slowed us down. We just arrived on the minute. I knew I dad to look for a tall guy – fortunately he noticed us and came there. He was so kind to guide us in the city and showed us all we wanted to see and helped us in everything. I bought a good hat (made of cotton) in the bazaar and a big loose shirt (made of cotton as well), in preparation for the hot days.

Old mosque in Edirne

Solar charger review in Hungarian


2010
05.04

I’ve made a review at home (before we’ve started) about the solar charger that we carry with us – how to use it, what extra components are required, etc. It is in Hungarian! My brother edited and put them on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFRdzUXkWpM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Meoio4jLbA4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP8co8Sd8RM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtADwOhpxcg

Tidy Bulgaria


2010
05.02

Neat Bulgarian landscape

Day 14 continued: We took the ferry through the Danube and entered Bulgaria at Nikopol. We asked the guard there (who seemed bored) to take a photo of us – he thought we asked for permission to take a photo. So I took a self-exposure photo at the Bulgaria sign. After taking another one, the guard suddenly urged us that it was enough for today and please go. Probably they wanted to go home because the last (=second on that day) ferry arrived.
For our surprise, we had to pay a so called Terminal Tax – 50 Euro Cents per person. Even if you arrive on a bike or on foot!
They were surprised that we wanted to exchange Leva on the border – they said that the next town where we can change is Pleven and is 50 km away…
But we were impressed by the good quality of the road: 10 points (out of 10). No traffic, no headwind. And that continued for a long time. (Levski – Pavlikeni was not so good but otherwise OK. Not so shaky as in Romania.)
The sky was blue and the landscape was lovely (more ordered), there were spaces between villages! In a village we somehow could make them understand that we want to change money and a man on a motorbike led us to a bar owner woman who changed us 10 euros to 19 levas. (Even if this is not the best rate – it was 1.95). The communication was behindered by the fact that they nod like no for yes and like yes for no. I was totally confused even if I understood da and ne! :)
Everybody asks us from where we came and after they learn that we are Hungarians, they say a few words in Hungarian. The most commons are: csókolom, nem tudom, szeretlek, jó napot, köszönöm. All the people in the villages are very kind to us.
In the evening Zsofi told me that we must go at least 75 km today (so that it will remain 75 for the next day as well) but we slept 7 km before that limit, in Tranchovitsa next to a football court. We noticed the bad smell only after we started to pitch the tent and hoped that it will go away but it didn’t. So we spent the night in shit smell.
Day 15: After riding through nice landscape, we arrived at Samovodene to the main road again – it was terrible, but fortunately not too long – 10 km before Veliko Tarnovo.

Monastery before VT on the left

The town is on built on a hillside around a turning river in a steep gorge and has a nice view. It the town we called the CS guy and then met at the central Post office. It turned out that it was not his apartment where we should sleep but another student’s. And the next surprise was that in that apartment there was no shower! We spent 4 nights in a row in tent with limited abilities to wash ourselves but rode the bike for 60-80 km a day, having the shower was one of the most important thing for us. We thought that this is so trivial that we didn’t ask it. So we called the other guy in town, who was so kind to host us. He had a bathroom. And internet as well.
Day 16 started late because we spent some time hanging on internet. We started at around 3pm. We forgot to buy Nutella in the supermarkets, and in the small villages they don’t know what it is, there is only a fake Nutella which is called Finetty and is worse and a bit salty… :) In Kilifarevo, we started to eat on a bench, a man in the nearby pub noticed that and brought us a plastic table to eat on! Then a steep climb begun, we ascended up to 480 m, where we finally got out of the forest and found a grassy area where we immediately pitched the tent.
Day 17: As soon as we started to roll, we had a glimpse of a nice lake on the left.

Lake before Elena

It was so beautiful that we couldn’t resist the temptation to spend the day here and call this a rest day. So we cycled 3.5 km today, wow! But it was worth. We took a small muddy road which had a dead-end down at the lake, with a small grassy area.

Picnic at the lake

Nobody came here today, we were on our own! Today was a Mac Guyver day: we used the walkie-talkie while descending to the lake (I went down first to discover what’s there), then we charged everything with the solar panel, and even used the soldering iron to fix a battery charger case. And we also tested the Katadyn Mini water filter, we drank from the lake. So we had enough water and electricity, the only thing we missed was a shop to buy bacon (szalonna) to fry it at the campfire. We could only cook rice. We enjoyed the rest day very much! Zsofi was sunbathing a lot, whereas I preferred the laying in the shade. The lake was too cold to swin in (or we were not brave enough).

More photos at http://picasaweb.google.hu/felix.kovacs/BikeToAsiaBulgaria#