Archive for the ‘Bulgaria’ Category

The worst road ever


2010
05.09

Day 18 (1st of May) started as sunny as the others in Bulgaria. It was worth having a rest day before, because Tihomir said that there is a lovely landscape before Elena, but he forgot to mention that after Elena there comes the worst road in Bulgaria! As you can see on the photos, the landscape was really beautiful. Hristo, our next CS host in Nova Zagora already texted us that there will be a 20 km long macadam road through the hills. The next sign was the “pass closed” sign just after Elena. We were not sure what it meant so we asked a passing car – they told that it is written there because the road quality is unacceptable for cars, but as we are on MTBs, we are OK. At this time, we thought it will be like the pass in Romania before lake Vidra. But it was much worse!

Worst road ever

Large pieces of stones, we wouldn’t even call it a road. It lasted for 16 km’s. Zsofi had to get off and push several times, even downhill, she was afraid that she will fall. The stones sometimes put the bike’s back or front 10-20 cm sideways. Zsofi bounced on the saddle. Her mood degraded exponentially with the distance covered. It was very hard to start on the rolling stones once we stopped. But I just kept riding like a robot and I liked it – this kind of road was not new to me. :)

Balkan mountains

It was hot and there were small flies who kept flying just in front of our face which was very annoying. On the top at 1044 m there was not even a sign marking the pass. From there, the road suddenly changed to good quality, and even if there were occasional holes, it was very delighting to roll downhill. I think that it was much better in this direction that the other: we can climb slowly anyway, but can roll down faster.

The descend was more comfortable

The road from here to Nova Zagora was quite easy. It was already dark when we arrived. Hristo was very hospitable, gave us a whole house and brought us dinner.
Day 19: we found a wifi and washed all our clothes. We started very late – only at 5 PM.
Day 20: we crossed a unique pass – it did not lead through the saddle but through the top of the hill, and we went from hilltop to hilltop for several km’s. But we really enjoyed the slope downwards. We could roll very fast without having to break – my favorite. Because we utilize our energy optimally this way.

Cycling on the runway

We were invited to two icecreams at a shop in front of which we settled down to eat our own food – just as usual. In this region, all of the shop owners are very kind and let us to eat there – something that is not so common in western Europe, for example. I can remember that in Corse, we were asked to leave when we started to eat at a table… In Svilengrad, we found a wifi in front of a Supermarket. Then crossed the BG-GR border very quickly and found a place with lots of aggressive mosquitoes just a couple of km’s after that.
Day 21: The mosquitoes did not pause – they attacked us even in the morning! Btw, we came through Greece because the direct way from Svilengrad to Edirne was a highway. Now, it turned out that we are on a highway in Greece as well (which was not indicated on the Greece map that we got on the border for free from the officer). So we took the next exit and went on smaller roads with many extra km’s. Near the Turkish border, there was an interesting river-crossing: the road suddenly disappeared and continued under the water for several hundred meters. It was not too deep, however, so we could cross – but the chains did not like the water, I think.

Paddle boat

This day we did not have to ride a long distance but even so, at the end we had to hurry not to be late – Emre, our next CS host waited for us at 17:30 in the center of Edirne. But there was a long stretch of cobbled road which slowed us down. We just arrived on the minute. I knew I dad to look for a tall guy – fortunately he noticed us and came there. He was so kind to guide us in the city and showed us all we wanted to see and helped us in everything. I bought a good hat (made of cotton) in the bazaar and a big loose shirt (made of cotton as well), in preparation for the hot days.

Old mosque in Edirne

Tidy Bulgaria


2010
05.02

Neat Bulgarian landscape

Day 14 continued: We took the ferry through the Danube and entered Bulgaria at Nikopol. We asked the guard there (who seemed bored) to take a photo of us – he thought we asked for permission to take a photo. So I took a self-exposure photo at the Bulgaria sign. After taking another one, the guard suddenly urged us that it was enough for today and please go. Probably they wanted to go home because the last (=second on that day) ferry arrived.
For our surprise, we had to pay a so called Terminal Tax – 50 Euro Cents per person. Even if you arrive on a bike or on foot!
They were surprised that we wanted to exchange Leva on the border – they said that the next town where we can change is Pleven and is 50 km away…
But we were impressed by the good quality of the road: 10 points (out of 10). No traffic, no headwind. And that continued for a long time. (Levski – Pavlikeni was not so good but otherwise OK. Not so shaky as in Romania.)
The sky was blue and the landscape was lovely (more ordered), there were spaces between villages! In a village we somehow could make them understand that we want to change money and a man on a motorbike led us to a bar owner woman who changed us 10 euros to 19 levas. (Even if this is not the best rate – it was 1.95). The communication was behindered by the fact that they nod like no for yes and like yes for no. I was totally confused even if I understood da and ne! :)
Everybody asks us from where we came and after they learn that we are Hungarians, they say a few words in Hungarian. The most commons are: csókolom, nem tudom, szeretlek, jó napot, köszönöm. All the people in the villages are very kind to us.
In the evening Zsofi told me that we must go at least 75 km today (so that it will remain 75 for the next day as well) but we slept 7 km before that limit, in Tranchovitsa next to a football court. We noticed the bad smell only after we started to pitch the tent and hoped that it will go away but it didn’t. So we spent the night in shit smell.
Day 15: After riding through nice landscape, we arrived at Samovodene to the main road again – it was terrible, but fortunately not too long – 10 km before Veliko Tarnovo.

Monastery before VT on the left

The town is on built on a hillside around a turning river in a steep gorge and has a nice view. It the town we called the CS guy and then met at the central Post office. It turned out that it was not his apartment where we should sleep but another student’s. And the next surprise was that in that apartment there was no shower! We spent 4 nights in a row in tent with limited abilities to wash ourselves but rode the bike for 60-80 km a day, having the shower was one of the most important thing for us. We thought that this is so trivial that we didn’t ask it. So we called the other guy in town, who was so kind to host us. He had a bathroom. And internet as well.
Day 16 started late because we spent some time hanging on internet. We started at around 3pm. We forgot to buy Nutella in the supermarkets, and in the small villages they don’t know what it is, there is only a fake Nutella which is called Finetty and is worse and a bit salty… :) In Kilifarevo, we started to eat on a bench, a man in the nearby pub noticed that and brought us a plastic table to eat on! Then a steep climb begun, we ascended up to 480 m, where we finally got out of the forest and found a grassy area where we immediately pitched the tent.
Day 17: As soon as we started to roll, we had a glimpse of a nice lake on the left.

Lake before Elena

It was so beautiful that we couldn’t resist the temptation to spend the day here and call this a rest day. So we cycled 3.5 km today, wow! But it was worth. We took a small muddy road which had a dead-end down at the lake, with a small grassy area.

Picnic at the lake

Nobody came here today, we were on our own! Today was a Mac Guyver day: we used the walkie-talkie while descending to the lake (I went down first to discover what’s there), then we charged everything with the solar panel, and even used the soldering iron to fix a battery charger case. And we also tested the Katadyn Mini water filter, we drank from the lake. So we had enough water and electricity, the only thing we missed was a shop to buy bacon (szalonna) to fry it at the campfire. We could only cook rice. We enjoyed the rest day very much! Zsofi was sunbathing a lot, whereas I preferred the laying in the shade. The lake was too cold to swin in (or we were not brave enough).

More photos at http://picasaweb.google.hu/felix.kovacs/BikeToAsiaBulgaria#